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The tradition of ukai, or cormorant fishing, has a history of over 400 years in Miyoshi, and it reaches back to the local feudal lord Asano Nagaharu, who brought this unique technique to the region during Japan’s Warring States period. The cormorants in question are large black birds that hunt by diving under the water to catch their dinner, searching out small river fish. Ukai fishermen take advantage of the birds’ skill by harnessing up teams of them, and collecting fish from each of the cormorants after they’ve slipped elegantly under the surface of the river and returned with their latest catch. Nowadays, ukai has become a rare occurrence in Japan as industrial-scale fishing has grown to provide the fish that people eat every day. But in Miyoshi, the tradition is kept alive every summer by the three local ukai experts, and thanks in part to the especially long straps that these fishermen use to keep a hold of the birds (the longest in Japan), it’s quite a sight. Not only do the fishermen go out with their birds and bright lanterns as they have for hundreds of years, but sightseers can join them on the river in special viewing boats, watching it all happen right before their eyes. It’s a spectacular performance that shows off the skills of ukai fishermen as they work together with their cormorants, and the wonder of this traditional technique.

Designated an intangible cultural folk property of Hiroshima, ukai isn’t just a show. The fishermen on their long thin boats and the cormorants snapping fish up out of the water have a bond that takes years to build. The fishermen take care of the birds on their team each and every day, feeding them, checking each bird’s health, and training together to build trust and understanding.

For a long time, ukai provided livelihoods for many people in Miyoshi, and the fishermen have always built deep relationships with their teams of sea and river cormorants. Four hundred years have passed since ukai was introduced to Miyoshi, but the hard work and understanding that go into the tradition haven’t changed much, and the centuries of history that have gone into this technique are clear during each ukai outing!

Spectators hoping to see ukai in action can make reservations ahead of time, and then gather at the ukai boat dock under the setting sun before climbing into one of the small viewing boats steered by local pros. The viewing boats and fishing boats maneuver around each other as the fishermen carefully create a space for the “anayari” (あなやり) method, which pushes fish into the shallows as spectators look on from just a few meters away. When reserving a seat, customers can also order drinks or even bento boxes to enjoy while watching the ukai demonstration, making this one unique night out!