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While Japan’s ancient temple and shrine buildings are sometimes centuries old, most everyday structures are torn down and rebuilt with enough frequency that truly old houses are few and far between. But this grand Japanese home belonged to Edo-era (1603-1868) Miyoshi magistrate Rai Kyohei, who named it “Umpekikyo” after a Chinese fable, and the man was so deeply beloved by the people of the city that locals have worked hard to preserve his home for hundreds of years. To this day, the little Japanese garden and traditional architecture of Umpekikyo are still standing right at the heart of Miyoshi, and visitors are welcomed to the house to enjoy the historical scenery and learn about Rai Kyohei, his humanitarian work, and his beautiful poetry.

The site where Umpekikyo now sits was originally where the local feudal lord built his own residence and ruled over the Miyoshi Asano Domain 400 years ago. Two centuries later, Rai Kyohei became a prefectural governor for the Miyoshi area in 1813, and spent over a decade walking from town to town in the region before settling down in Miyoshi. During this time, he lent an ear to local residents, concerning himself with the worries and woes of the common people he met during his journeys, and he earned himself a reputation for kindness and generosity along the way.

By the time Rai Kyohei was elevated to regional magistrate and built his new home in Miyoshi, Umpekikyo, he was known as a man of the people. For the rest of his life, Rai Kyohei conducted the duties of a magistrateーleading, policing, tax collectingーwith unwavering concern for the people he was ruling over, and often did things to improve the quality of life for the people of Miyoshi. He advocated for lower taxes, and even started a persimmon-planting initiative to prevent famine in Miyoshi. In his free time, Rai Kyohei was a poet, composing waka poetry and leaving behind sheets of elegant calligraphy, endearing himself even further to his people.

Nowadays, visitors can call ahead and make an appointment to visit Umpekikyo and spend some time in the beautifully preserved Japanese house. Local volunteers are happy to give tours of the rooms, from the cozy study to the wooden veranda, and talk about the life of Rai Kyohei and his many admirable deeds in Japanese. There are even some English-language pamphlets to help communicate the historical importance of this unique Miyoshi spot. After taking a look around, travelers are welcome to relax in the comfortable traditional space and enjoy the atmosphere for as long as they like, lounging on the fragrant tatami mats under the heavy thatched roof, and the volunteer caretakers often bring out cups of tea and small plates of awayuki, a sweet Miyoshi delicacy. The main rooms look out onto a small garden that bursts into color each spring with pink plum and cherry blossoms, before getting covered with a soft blanket of white snow each winter. Umpekikyo is a perfect place to appreciate the stories of Rai Kyohei and Miyoshi’s past, alongside the beauty of the city to this day.